Results - 2009 NSW Difficuly and Speed Titles and Qualifier for WYC

11,12 April 2009, Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym, St Peters, NSW

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A short explanation of the scoring system my help some of you. The NSW titles was worked to simply from the finals and used the heats in the case of count back. However the Selection is a little more complicated. This was based on the rankings for each round. If there was a tie in any position then the position was averaged. In other words if 3 people tied for 2nd place the this would be the average of 2,3, and 4. So they would all get 3rd. The next place getter gets 5th, and so on.

The rankings from the 4 heats and the finals are then multiplied together and the 5th root taken. Why so complicated? This means that we are much less likely to get a tie and gives preference to the person that has the highest placing. This is best shown by an example.

Say Fred got 2,2,3 4,4 and Timmy got 2,3,3,3,4.
If we take the averaging method Fred gets (2+2+3+4+4)/5 = 15/5 = 3 and Timmy gets (2+3+3+3+4)/5 = 15/5 = 3 Tied!!
However if Fred 1/5root(2*2*3*4*4)=1/5root(192)= 2.86 and Timmy 1/5root(2*3*3*3*4) = 1/5root(216) = 2.93
Fred wins because he had more 2nds.

This is similar to the heats in WYC where they multiply the rankings in the heats and take the square root. The same principle is used, except that we have applied it across the five climbs. This means that we pick the consistently good climbers. The outstanding example is Daniel Fisher, who despite falling on the first move in the final, still qualified 2nd in the selection. He is clearly a talented climber but everyone can have a bad climb and we want our consistently good climbers, not just the climber who flukes one climb. Although there is an argument for rewarding the climbers who can compete under pressure. I'll leave that for a forum discussion.

Kip

PS Thanks Climb On; my skin has never felt better!! I'm also workink hard with my Uncarved Block hangboards, and when I'm out at the crag, my favourity rope is Sterling. Thanks to the sposors.

OAM -- Open A Male; OAW -- Open A Female
OBM -- Open B Male; OBW -- Open B Female
MM -- Masters Male; MW -- Masters Female

JM -- Junior Male; JF -- Junior Female
AM -- Youth A Male; AF -- Youth A Female
BM -- Youth B Male; BF -- Youth B Female
CM -- Youth C Male; CF -- Youth C Female
DM -- Youth D Male; DF -- Youth D Female

Difficulty

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 PLACE
OAM LeBreton Rob 100.00 1.50 100.00 1.50 100.00 1.00 16.90 1.00 1.22 40.00 1.00 1
OAM Lopez Cristian 100.00 1.50 100.00 1.50 12.90 2.00 8.90 2.00 1.73 13.00 2.00 2

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals State
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 PLACE
AW Crane Cass 100.00 2.00 100.00 2.00 100.00 1.50 22.00 1.00 1.57 29.90 1.00 1
AW Felthham Ashleigh 100.00 2.00 100.00 2.00 100.00 1.50 17.90 2.00 1.86 26.00 2.00 2
AW Sellers Nikki 100.00 2.00 100.00 2.00 25.00 3.00 14.90 3.00 2.45 14.00 3.00 3

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
OBM Bruce Travis 20.30 2.00 22.30 2.00 24.00 1.50 0.00 1.00 1.57 0.00 1.00 1.43  
OBM Griggs Joel 23.30 1.00 23.30 1.00 24.00 1.50 0.00 1.00 1.11 0.00 1.00 1.08  

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 PLACE
MM Oczapowski Tomasz 100.00 2.00 100.00 1.00 100.00 1.00 17.90 1.00 1.19 23.00 1.00 1.00
MM Newing Kip 100.00 2.00 25.90 4.00 27.00 4.00 15.00 2.00 2.83 19.00 2.00 2.00
MM Mounsey Dean 35.30 4.00 31.00 2.00 31.00 2.00 12.90 4.00 2.83 17.00 3.00 3.00
MM Breheny Richard 28.30 5.00 26.00 3.00 25.00 5.00 5.00 7.00 4.79 13.00 4.00 4.00
MM Deininger Carl 24.00 6.00 20.90 6.00 24.00 6.50 7.00 5.00 5.85 12.30 5.00 5.00
MM Wagland David 20.90 7.00 5.30 8.00 24.00 6.50 3.30 8.00 7.35 12.00 6.00 6.00
MM Lochner Clive 18.00 8.00 6.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 5.00 6.00 6.96 11.30 7.00 7.00
MM Garben Mike 100.00 2.00 24.00 5.00 27.90 3.00 14.90 3.00 3.08 11.00 8.00 8.00

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
JM Breheny Mitch 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.50 16.90 1.00 20.90 1.50 1.99 23.30 4.00 2.29 4
JM Horan Joe 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.50 13.00 4.00 21.90 1.50 2.82 27.30 1.50 2.48 1
JM Braach-Maksbytris Mattias 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.50 16.30 2.00 16.90 5.00 3.20 27.30 1.50 2.75 2
JM Smith Andrew 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.50 13.30 3.00 20.30 3.00 3.12 19.90 5.00 3.43 5
JM MacPherson Connor 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.50 12.90 5.50 19.90 4.00 3.90 23.90 3.00 3.70 3
JM Van Balen Ben 25.00 6.00 100.00 3.50 12.90 5.50 9.90 6.00 5.13 14.90 6.00 5.29 6
JM Broadbent Aidan 22.30 7.00 27.00 7.00 5.90 7.00 0.00 7.00 7.00 0.00 7.00 7.00 7

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
JW Brown Emma 100.00 1.50 100.00 1.00 100.00 1.00 9.50 1.00 1.11 19.30 1.00 1.08 1
JW Santangelo Maya 100.00 1.50 21.90 2.00 26.90 2.00 7.30 2.00 1.86 11.00 2.50 1.97 2
JW Andersen Melissa 13.30 3.00 11.30 3.00 20.90 3.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 11.00 2.50 2.89 3

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection STATE
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
AM O'Halloran Tom 100.00 2.00 100.00 3.50 16.30 2.00 22.90 1.00 1.93 27.30 1.00 1.70 1
AM Pritchard Scott 100.00 2.00 100.00 3.50 9.30 7.00 14.30 4.00 3.74 23.90 2.00 3.30 2
AM Aves Ben 27.30 4.00 100.00 3.50 13.30 3.00 4.00 8.00 4.28 16.00 3.00 3.99 3
AM Paijmans Edo 21.00 9.00 27.00 7.00 12.30 5.00 14.30 4.00 5.96 14.30 4.50 5.63 4
AM Bartlett Will 25.00 6.50 100.00 3.50 8.00 8.00 1.90 9.50 6.45 14.30 4.50 6.00 5
AM Adams Robbie 26.00 5.00 26.00 8.00 12.90 4.00 14.30 4.00 5.03 14.00 6.00 5.21 6
AM Johnston Liam 25.00 6.50 100.00 3.50 11.30 6.00 9.90 6.50 5.46 11.30 7.00 5.74 7
AM Fisher Daniel 100.00 2.00 100.00 3.50 100.00 1.00 21.90 2.00 1.93 1.90 8.00 2.57 8
AM Taylor Ryan 24.30 8.00 25.00 9.00 6.00 9.50 9.90 6.50 8.17 0.00 9.50 8.42 9
AM Hall Alexander 17.30 10.00 24.30 10.00 6.00 9.50 1.90 9.50 9.75 0.00 9.50 9.70 10

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
AW Farrell Nicole 100.00 2.50 100.00 1.00 100.00 1.50 5.30 5.50 2.13 19.00 1.50 1.99 1
AW Horan Emma 100.00 2.50 26.30 2.00 25.00 4.50 8.00 3.50 2.98 19.00 1.50 2.60 2
AW Crump Laura 100.00 2.50 26.00 3.00 33.00 3.00 8.00 3.50 2.98 15.30 3.00 2.98 3
AW Davis Sarah 22.00 5.00 21.00 5.50 25.00 4.50 8.30 2.00 3.97 15.00 4.00 3.97 4
AW Fletcher Brittany 100.00 2.50 24.30 4.00 100.00 1.50 9.30 1.00 1.97 11.30 5.50 2.42 5
AW Riederich Natalie 20.30 6.00 21.00 5.50 22.90 6.00 5.30 5.50 5.74 11.30 5.50 5.69 6

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection State
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
BM Peyr Samual 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 37.90 2.00 100.00 2.00 2.24 22.00 1.00 1.90 1
BM Tsang Mathew 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 21.30 4.00 100.00 2.00 2.66 20.90 2.00 2.51 2
BM Urquhart Michael 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 23.90 3.00 22.00 6.00 3.26 14.00 3.00 3.20 3
BM Wagland Nick 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 100.00 1.00 100.00 2.00 1.88 13.90 4.00 2.19 4
BM Lagones Thomas 20.30 5.00 30.30 5.00 17.90 5.00 27.00 4.00 4.73 6.90 5.00 4.78 5
BM Grant Harry 16.30 6.00 20.00 6.00 15.00 6.00 23.00 5.00 5.73 2.00 6.00 5.79 6

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heat4 Heats Finals Selection State
tcher Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Raw6 Rank7 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 Rank11 PLACE
BW King Sophie 100.00 3.50 100.00 1.00 100.00 1.00 21.90 2.00 1.63 13.90 1.00 1.48 1
BW Fletcher Loesje 100.00 3.50 26.00 2.00 23.00 2.00 26.30 1.00 1.93 13.30 2.00 1.95 2
BW Johns Zoe 100.00 3.50 21.00 3.00 20.00 4.00 11.00 5.00 3.81 8.50 3.00 3.63 3
BW Dahl Catlin 100.00 3.50 20.00 4.00 19.00 5.00 5.30 6.00 4.53 7.30 4.50 4.52 4
BW Bird Ashleigh 100.00 3.50 17.00 6.00 13.00 6.00 15.00 4.00 4.74 7.30 4.50 4.69 5
BW De Courcey Susan 100.00 3.50 18.00 5.00 21.00 3.00 16.90 3.00 3.54 7.00 6.00 3.94 6

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heats Finals
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Rank8 Raw9 Rank10 PLACE
CM Klein Bryson 100.00 2.00 100.00 1.50 100.00 1.50 1.65 32.90 1.00 1
CM Wagland Damian 100.00 2.00 100.00 1.50 100.00 1.50 1.65 18.90 2.00 2
CM Bowron Daniel 100.00 2.00 43.30 3.00 31.90 3.00 2.62 10.30 3.00 3

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heats Finals
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Rank6 Raw7 Rank8 PLACE
CW Jo-Bliss Zebedee 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 2.50 33.90 1.00 1
CW Blake Rosalyn 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 2.50 25.30 2.00 2
CW Fletcher Lindsay 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 2.50 18.30 3.00 3
CW Tru e Alex 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 100.00 2.50 2.50 8.90 4.00 4

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heats Finals State
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Rank6 Raw7 Rank8 PLACE
DM Riley Nichols 100.00 1.00 100.00 1.00 100.00 1.00 1.00 20.30 1.00 1

 

Heat1 Heat2 Heat3 Heats Finals
Cat Surname Given Raw Rank Raw2 Rank3 Raw4 Rank5 Rank6 Raw7 Rank8 PLACE
DW Aves Alex 100.00 3.50 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.00 3.16 29.00 1.00 1
DW Mcarthy-Lohner Aria 100.00 3.50 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.00 3.16 17.00 2.00 2
DW Wong Desiree 100.00 3.50 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.00 3.16 15.30 3.00 3
Dw LeBreton Minah 100.00 3.50 37.00 6.00 23.30 6.00 5.01 13.30 4.00 4
DW Blumson Kelsi 100.00 3.50 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.00 3.16 11.90 5.00 5
DW Benjamin Emily 26.90 7.00 31.00 7.00 15.00 7.00 7.00 9.30 6.00 6
DW Campton-Smith Olivia 100.00 3.50 100.00 3.00 100.00 3.00 3.16 0.00 7.00 7

 

Speed

Open A Male

OAM Lopez Cristian 12.45 11.21 23.66 1st
 
OAM LeBreton Rob 16.26 18.1 34.36 2nd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
OAM Lopez Cristian 12.35 12.34 24.69 1
OAM LeBreton Rob 16.14 22.21 38.35 2

Open A Female

OAW LeBreton Carlie 14.00 14.70 28.70
LeBreton Carlie 11.39 11.37 22.76 1st
          0.00
OAW Felthham Ashleigh 15.78 14.33 30.11
Felthham Ashleigh 14.81 13.3 28.11 2nd
OAW Sellers Nikki 16.38 16.15 32.53 3rd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
OAW LeBreton Carlie 13.15 12.4 25.55 1
OAW Felthham Ashleigh 15.53 16.55 32.08 2
OAW Sellers Nikki 18.12 20.56 38.68 3

Open B Male

OBM Griggs Joel 15.07 14.98 30.05 1st
OBM Bruce Travis 18.38 15.12 33.5 2nd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
OBM Griggs Joel 17.11 16.75 33.86 1
OBM Bruce Travis 17.96 17.83 35.79 2

Masters Male

MM Deininger Carl 16.2 16.69 32.89
Deininger Carl 17.82 16.22 34.04 2nd
          0
MM Newing Kip 17.53 17.81 35.34
Newing Kip 17.02 15.86 32.88 1st
MM Smith Steve 18.11 24.52 42.63 3rd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
MM Deininger Carl 15.79 15.19 30.98 1
MM Garben Mike 18.14 18.02 36.16 2
MM Newing Kip 18.44 20.94 39.38 3
MM Lochner Clive 21.66 23.05 44.71 4
MM Smith Steve 26.92 23.42 50.34 5

Junior Male

JM Horan Joe 10.8 11.8 22.6
Horan Joe 10.43 10.91 21.34 2nd
JM Broadbent Aidan 10.94 12.47 23.41
JM Braach-Maksbytris Mattias 10.18 10.93 21.11
Braach-Maksbytris Mattias 9.59 9.48 19.07 1st
JM Van Balen Ben 11.67 11.08 22.75
Broadbent Aidan 9.76 11.39 21.15 3rd
Van Balen Ben 13.01 10.86 23.87 4th
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
JM Horan Joe 12.11 11.66 23.77 1
JM Braach-Maksbytris Mattias 12.51 11.58 24.09 2
JM Van Balen Ben 12.01 13.7 25.71 3
JM Broadbent Aidan 14.05 13.68 27.73 4

Junior Female

JW Brown Emma 13.99 12.54 26.53 1st
 
JW Andersen Melissa 28.69 25.27 53.96 2nd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
JW Brown Emma 14.68 14.41 29.09 1
JW Andersen Melissa 24.48 30.48 54.96 2

Youth A Male

AM Pritchard Scott 12.92 11.27 24.19
Pritchard Scott 13.77 10.51 24.28 1st
AM Paijmans Edo 15.27 15.36 30.63
 
AM Adams Robbie 13.31 13.09 26.4
Adams Robbie 16.33 14.62 30.95 2ND
AM Aves Ben 14.33 12.71 27.04
Paijmans Edo 14.33 15.09 29.42 4th
 
Aves Ben 12.69 12.46 25.15 3rd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
AM Pritchard Scott 14.17 11.67 25.84 1
AM Adams Robbie 14.64 14.84 29.48 2
AM Aves Ben 13.83 16.16 29.99 3
AM Paijmans Edo 16.73 16.69 33.42 4
AM Johnston Liam 19.58 21.53 41.11 5
AM Hall Alexander 21.63 22.01 43.64 6

Youth A Female

AW Riederich Natalie 16.25 17.18 33.43
Riederich Natalie 16.06 16.58 32.64 2nd
AW Crump Laura 18.81 16.69 35.5
AW Davis Sarah 17.63 15.55 33.18
Davis Sarah 16.87 13.37 30.24 1st
AW Horan Emma 20.17 17.82 37.99
Crump Laura 19.37 15.88 35.25 4th
Horan Emma 18.75 15.66 34.41 3rd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
AW Riederich Natalie 16.18 17.48 33.66 1
AW Davis Sarah 18.99 20.36 39.35 2
AW Horan Emma 17.84 23.86 41.7 3
AW Crump Laura 20.8 23.24 44.04 4
AW Farrell Nicole 21.36 26.38 47.74 5

Youth B Male

BM Urquhart Michael 15.7 14.9 30.6
Urquhart Michael 14.92 13.3 28.22 1ST
BM Grant Harry 18.26 18.38 36.64
BM Tsang Mathew 17.47 15.72 33.19
Lagones Thomas 14.76 15.4 30.16 2ND
BM Lagones Thomas 16.72 15.69 32.41
Grant Harry 16.7 16.03 32.73 3RD
Tsang Mathew 16.9 16.04 32.94 4th
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
BM Urquhart Michael 15.75 17.31 33.06 1
BM Tsang Mathew 18.04 18.39 36.43 2
BM Lagones Thomas 18.72 18.68 37.4 3
BM Grant Harry 20.43 20.91 41.34 4

Youth B Female

BW King Sophie 17.97 20.44 38.41
King Sophie 18 15.15 33.15 1st
BW Dahl Catlin     0
 
BW Fletcher Loesje 18.56 20.23 38.79
De Courcey Susan 17.94 22.9 40.84 2ND
BW De Courcey Susan 18.14 20.5 38.64
Fletcher Loesje     0 3RD
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
BW King Sophie 19.77 20.08 39.85 1
BW Fletcher Loesje 22.27 23.63 45.9 2
BW De Courcey Susan 24.18 23.71 47.89 3
BW Dahl Catlin 32.22 28.23 60.45 4

Youth C Male, and D Male

CM Wagland Damian 18.28 16.37 34.65
Wagland Damian 15 13.72 28.72 1st
CM Bowron Daniel 24.34 22.91 47.25
CM Klein Bryson 18.53 17.22 35.75
Klein Bryson 16.47 15.78 32.25 2ND
DM Riley Nichols 24.47 20.66 45.13
Bowron Daniel 26.22 21.2 47.42 3rd
Riley Nichols 21.84 22.09 43.93 1st in YouthD
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
CM Wagland Damian 17.22 18.2 35.42 1
CM Klein Bryson 16.31 20.44 36.75 2
CM Bowron Daniel 38.9 26.4 65.3 3
DM Riley Nichols 30.47 30.5 60.97 1

Youth C Female

CW Jo-Bliss Zebedee 15.75 16.44 32.19
Jo-Bliss Zebedee 13.41 12.59 26 1st
CW Tru e Alex 21.25 22.12 43.37
CW Blake Rosalyn 17.97 18.06 36.03
Blake Rosalyn 18.85 18.91 37.76 2nd
CW Fletcher Lindsay 18.81 17.35 36.16
Tru e Alex 19.06 19.38 38.44 4th
Fletcher Lindsay 17 18.13 35.13 3rd
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
CW Jo-Bliss Zebedee 15.4 13.35 28.75 1
CW Blake Rosalyn 19.6 19.66 39.26 2
CW Fletcher Lindsay 21 19.47 40.47 3
CW Tru e Alex 24.03 25.63 49.66 4

Youth D Female

DW Wong Desiree 21.53 20.78 42.31
Wong Desiree 20.03 21.94 41.97 1st
Dw LeBreton Minah 28.29 24.1 52.39
DW Aves Alex 22.72 22.43 45.15
Aves Alex 21.12 24.75 45.87 2nd
DW Blumson Kelsi 23.97 22.53 46.5
Blumson Kelsi 22.06 22.31 44.37 3rd
LeBreton Minah 23.91 30.19 54.1 4th
Cat Surname First Name Heat1 Heat2 Total
DW Wong Desiree 25.5 23.19 48.69 1
DW Aves Alex 25.4 29.81 55.21 2
DW Blumson Kelsi 29.49 30.06 59.55 3
Dw LeBreton Minah 33.69 34.15 67.84 4
DW Benjamin Emily 37.29 48.44 85.73 5