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Sam Berry and Marc Edwards are opening the first Bouldering only Climbing Gym in Sydney, Bloc Climbing Centre, in North Parramatta. The Gym opens on 31st May, then on 21st and 22nd of June, the NSW Bouldering Titles will be held. There will be a pumpfest for everyone followed by the State Titles.
Bloc Climbing Centre. Unit 2, 23 Castle Street, North Parramatta
Categories: Youth D Youth C Youth B Youth A Junior Opens A Opens B Masters (35+)
Entry Fee: $35. Includes BBQ lunch. Pay at registration desk on the day.
Competition Organiser: Sam Berry
Ph. 9683 2149 Email: samclimbs@yahoo.com
SCHEDULE:
Saturday 21st June – Opens A Opens B Masters
Registration Time: 9am
Pumpfest: 10am – 12:30pm
Finals: 2pm
Sunday 22nd June – All Junior/Youth categories
Registration Time: 9am
Pumpfest: 10am – 12:30pm
Finals: 2pm
FORMAT:
Opens A
Pumpfest for qualification round. Best 8 problems go towards scoring. Top
five (5) competitors enter the final round. World Cup format for finals. –
five (5) problems, onsight with bonus and top holds scoring.
Opens B Masters
Pumpfest for qualification round. Best 8 problems go towards scoring. Top
five (5) competitors from each category enter the final round. Finals format
similar to the Bouldering Nationals last year - two (2) longish problems,
not onsight with climbers allowed to watch each other.
All Junior/Youth categories
Pumpfest for qualification round. Best 8 problems go towards scoring. Top
five (5) competitors from each category enter the final round. Finals format
similar to the Bouldering Nationals last year - two (2) longish problems,
not onsight with climbers allowed to watch each other.
The Oceania Championship will be held in NZ this year. The details will be available during May.
Still to be confirmed, but the New Zealanders qualifier will be held in early July. Still to be confirmed, but our team is invited to attend as an inaugural event in the Oceania series
We're kicking off the competition season a little later than usual this year, but we haven't forgotten you! The first round of the Pinnacle Sports Social Series for 2008 will be held at Pine Rivers PCYC on Sunday 20 April, and will be a mixed-format event. For those of you who missed the mixed-format competitions last year, this is an exciting new competition layout, where every climber attempts two difficulty problems, two boulder problems and a speed climb. Points are awarded for each station, with the best overall climber winning the day. This format proved so popular last year that we're going to do it all over again for two of the events in the Pinnacle Sports Social Series for 2008.
Pinnacle Sports has kindly put up sponsorship for us again in 2008, with thousands of dollars of series prizes up for grabs. There will also be a competitor sample bag, including T-shirt, for all climbers who compete in 3 or more events in the Social Series. Huge thanks to Paul, Tiff and AJ at Pinnacle for their continued support of the series.
So, the first comp. Here are the details:
Pinnacle Social Series 2008 – round 1
Sunday 20 April
Pine Rivers PCYC, Les Hughes Reserve, Bray Park
These categories register at 9am, and climb at 9:30am
- 9 years and under
- Youth D (born 1997 or 1998)
- Youth C (born 1995 or 1996)
These categories register at 11am and climb at 11:30am
- Youth B (born 1993 or 1994)
- Youth A (born 1991 or 1992)
- Junior (born 1989 or 1990)
These categories register at 2pm and climb at 2:30pm
- Open Novice (climbing less than a year or up to grade 19 (female) or 21 (male))
- Open
- Masters (35+)
Cost to enter each competition is $25, and you must be an SCA member to compete, which costs between $1 and $45, depending on the option you choose. Payment can be made by cash or cheque, with cheques made out to Sport Climbing Australia. Please see the SCA website at the address below for details on the different types of membership.
Hope to see you all there!
Yours in climbing,
Matt DeshonHello All
It has taken me some time to determine who will be hired this year to course set at the ESPN X Games Asia 2008 presented by Kia Motors in Shanghai, China, April 30 – May 3, 2008. The pool of applicants was actually quite large, and the talent was obvious. Nonetheless, my budget this year allows for one course setter and one woman forerunner. This year, I have chosen Saxon Johns from Australia as the course setter and Khaetthaleeya (Kat) Uppakham from Thailand as the woman forerunner. I sincerely appreciate all of your resumes and interest. Please consider attending as an athlete from your respective countries.
If you have questions, please do not hesitate to contact me, and please stay in touch with current contact information (should anything change).
Best Regards
Jim Waugh
Many will already know that Australia will be hosting the World Youth Climbing Championship this year. The venue is at the Sydney Olympic Park. The event starts with the opening ceremony on the evening of the 27th of August, and then competition over the next four days. Both Speed and Difficulty are contested.
This will be the biggest competition ever to take place in Australia. In excess of 400 competitors from up to 40 countries will attend. The level of competition will be fearce. For example, the heats for Youth B girls are typically greater than grade 26. Many of the Youth A and Junior competitors compete in open competition. The speed competition will see climbers running up 12M in 6 or 7 seconds. It has to be seen to be believed.
We will need lots of volunteers to pull this off. If you feel you would like to be part of the team please email WYC@sportclimbingaustralia.org.au
We also need sponsors. If you would like to sponsor us or know someone who might, email WYCsteve@sportclimbingaustaralia.org.au
More inormation will be posted shortly.
A Continuously Updated Australian Ranking System (CUARS) is set to be introduced for competition climbing in 2008. Full details in relation to how this ranking system will work and what it means for competitors will become available in early 2008 on the SCA website so keep an eye out.
In brief:
The ranking system will reflect the previous 12 months of accumulated rankings scores on a rolling system. A ranking trail looking at overall ranking scores for the life of the athletes competition history will also be run in the background.
Ranking scores will begin with the first SCA sanctioned competition in 2008.
The ranking system will not be used for selection purposes until 2009, when the first 12 months of Official ranking data becomes available.
Most importantly, in order to be eligible for ranking scores competitors MUST be FULL members of the SCA at the time of the competition, ranking points will not be allocated retrospective of membership, so join early to receive maximum opportunity to gain ranking points throughout the competition year. Click here for SCA Membership details.
A complete outline of competition eligibility, athlete eligibility , how the rankings are allocated, ranking penalties for infringements, selection parameters, Open age category determination and more will be available soon.
On December 10, 2007 the IFSC was granted provisional recognition by the IOC Executive Board. Congratulations to all of you as members, for making this a strong sport to present to the IOC.
IFSC Press Release
IOC Recognition
of Sport Climbing
IOC Executive Board Meeting